J. Richard Beste Family's Visit to Terre Haute in 1851

(Part I)

J. Richard Beste, a resident of London, England, sailed with his wife and 11 children to America in 1851.

The voyage was "prescribed medical treatment" for Beste's ailing wife.

The family got much more than it bargained for. Four years later, Beste's account of its experiences was published in a two-volume set titled, "The Wabash: Or Adventures of an English Gentleman's Family in the Interior of America."

The book set was popular after its release, particularly in England, where travelogues describing the United States were in great demand.

A limited edition reprint was published in 1970 but it is doubtful that many copies are available on area bookshelves. For those who yearn for an objective understanding of the eastern United States, and particularly Vigo County as it was during the days of the Wabash & Erie Canal, it is recommended reading.

The Bestes' lengthy Terre Haute stay -- from June 29 to Aug. 11 -- was unplanned. It was eventful with poignant and tragic consequences. Isabel, one of the Beste children, died during the visit and was buried in St. Joseph's Catholic Cemetery. Upon arriving in New York, the Bestes headed west, stopping at Niagara Falls, Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati. From there, the family took a boat trip to Madison, Ind., and then traveled by rail to Indianapolis on Indiana's first railroad.

The trip from Indianapolis to Terre Haute on the National Road took two days.

"I had been told," Beste wrote, "that there were two good hotels in Terre Haute, the Prairie House and another. The Prairie (House) was the first house we came to on the outskirts of town.

"Surprised to find so large a hotel in such an out of the way part of the world, we determined that it would be unwise to pass it in search of any other, probably worse; and at half an hour before midday I drove into the yard of its ample premises.

"It was Sunday morning, the 29th of June, that we arrived at Terre Haute. We had reluctantly planned to travel forward on the same afternoon, for I had adopted, I know not where, that the neighborhood of the Wabash (River) was particularly unhealthy, and I was unwilling to pass a night within its influence.

"My wife and children had urged that we should remain here for the Sunday but the impression against the country was strong upon me, and I had resoled to leave the shores of the river and get as far as possible into Illinois State before night.

"Having given directions, therefore, that our horses should be baited, I went and sat me down in the hotel, as I felt too unwell to accompany our children who hoped still to reach church in time for divine service.

"There were many churches in Terre Haute frequented by different religionists and they wandered from one to the other. Outside the door of one, they heard a few sentences from a preacher whose loud ranting tones proved him not to be of the worship they sought."

Beste did not identify any church by name but among those visited by his children was St. Stephen's Episcopal Church, then located on the west side of North Fifth Street, south of Cherry Street. Finally, the youngsters found St. Joseph's Church on South Fifth Street but "the morning service had just ended, and the congregation was dispersing."

"At 1 o'clock," Beste related, "the hateful gong sounded through the 'Prairie House' and we all went to dinner. The eating room was of handsome dimensions, well lighted by a row of windows on each side.

"The tables were laid out with great neatness and propriety, and from fifty to one hundred people were seated at them. These were of a class far superior to what I had expected to find here. Some few of them were, evidently, gentry by birth and education."

The hotel manager was Toussaint C. Buntin, engaged by Chauncey Rose when he reopened the Prairie House in February 1849 after it had been closed for nearly eight years. Beste refers to Buntin as "Bunting" throughout his account.

"Mr. Bunting, our fat landlord, dressed in the height of fashion, and with carving knife and fork in hand politely guided us to our places, and then took his own stand at the side table, which groaned under a profusion of apparently well-cooked joints.

"One respectable looking negro waiter was in the room; and ten or a dozen boys, of ages varying from 12 to 15 years, and dressed in white jackets, but without shoes or stockings, ran around the room, and tumbled over one another in their eagerness -- looking more like school boys playing at leap frog than waiters at a worshipful dinner table."

The dinner was pleasing but Beste felt no better afterwards so the family decided to spend the night and leave early the next day. Accommodations were on the first floor.

"We had a sitting room to ourselves, which looked upon a space of ground, as yet unbuilt on, between the inn and Terre Haute, and which, at present, therefore, was an airy, open, grassy common."

The town was a busy place. The Terre Haute & Richmond Railroad, "and other public works," were under construction and many engineers and their families were living in hotels. Moreover, jobs were readily available paying high wages.

Beste noted: " [T]hese very works had induced servants and helps of all kinds to seek the higher wages they could there obtain; and families, so deserted by their usual attendants, had betaken themselves into the hotels to board and lodge."

Continued next week